Poor Soave, it's the Rodney Dangerfield of Italian wine whites. A whole generation has passed since the bad ol' days of the 1970s and ’80s, when Soave hit its nadir. Yet it's still got no respect. Baby boomers turn their backs, remembering the old bulk versions with a shudder. Hipsters pass it over for more esoteric discoveries from the Canary Islands, Tasmania, or other exotic lands.
Soave deserves better. Or rather, Soave Classico. Or to be precise, certain leading producers within the Soave Classico zone. But really they do.
So in March I went to the historic walled village of Soave and up into the surrounding hills to visit three of my favorite wineries: Pieropan, Suavia, and Inama—the pioneer, the purist, and the perfectionist, as I dubbed them. Each takes Soave Classico very seriously, each makes a wholly different style, and each is worth trying. Just wait, you'll thank me.
(Oh, and if you're a hipster in pursuit of the esoteric, or a sister wine nerd, know that Soave Classico belongs to that rare breed of volcanic wines. Volcanic soils impart a shimmering minerality to white wines. Very awesome. Very worth discovering.)
Here's the resulting article, published in the August issue of Tastes of Italia (on newsstands now).