The Amalfi Coast for Hikers

A walking + wine tour on the ancient Roman byways of Amalfi, Pompeii & Vesuvius

Itinerary:

DAY 1 – POMPEII AND VESUVIUS

Welcome to our Amalfi wine & hiking tour! We begin with a pickup at the Caserta train station. (This is an easy arrival point from Rome or Naples; train details will be provided.) From here, it's a 45-minute drive to our first destination: Mt. Vesuvius, the volcano that buried Pompeii. Today’s warm-up hike is a 2-mile jaunt up the final stretch of cone, following a broad cinder trail to the volcano’s rim, where we’ll see all of Naples stretching out at our feet. Then there's a complementary welcome lunch at a winery that resides on the slopes of Vesuvius.

Next, we drive to Pompeii. When Vesuvius erupted in 79 AD, Pompeii was a thriving, wealthy city full of epicures. Ancient wine bars lined the streets leading to the coliseum, and bar owners planted small vineyards next to their establishments. We'll have a guided tour of Pompeii and peek at the recently excavated Roman vineyards. Here archeologists are working with the Mastroberardino winery to recreate ancient Roman wine. We’ll then continue to the town of Ravello and settle into our hotel. On the terrace before dinner, we’ll have an introduction to Campania wines. Dinner will spotlight the region's seafood-based cuisine, such as pasta with shellfish and cherry tomatoes.
L, D • Hotel Giordano in Ravello

DAY 2 – LOOP AROUND RAVELLO

The coastal area surrounding Amalfi is surprisingly thick with woods. Today we’ll venture into the hills, part of the Apennine mountain chain. Our loop hike from Scala takes us through old chestnut woods (where you’ll still find locals collecting chestnuts in the fall), pine forests, and along ancient trails. We’ll eventually loop back to the town of Ravello, very close to Scala. Here there will be free time to explore the stunningly beautiful Villa Cimbrone, the secret hideaway for Greta Garbo and Leopold Stokowski when they eloped, which has extensive gardens, gazebos, and terraces overlooking the sea. Back at the hotel, we’ll meet on the terrace for an informal wine tasting and the story of Naples’ ties to ancient Greece. That history is visible today in such local grapes as Greco di Trufo and Aglianico (“Hellenic”), brought from Greece 2,000 years ago.
B, D • Hotel Giordano in Ravello

DAY 3 – AMALFI AND THE VALLEY OF THE MILLS

Today’s hiking destination is Amalfi, once a formidable sea power equal to Venice, Pisa, and Genoa. Starting from the hotel, we head into the wooded hills, passing tiny vineyards, limoneti (lemon groves), medieval ruins, and the town of Pontone. A gradual descent follows a stream in the Valle dei Mulini (Valley of the Mills) down to Amalfi, the end of our hike. Once in town, we’ll visit a limoncello factory and see how this famous lemon liquor is made. There will be time for lunch and sightseeing in the magnificent Amalfi Cathedral or at the town’s well-stocked wine shop. We then shuttle to Furore and our next hotel, owned by cousins of highly regarded winemaker Marisa Cuomo. Our pre-dinner tasting features Cuomo’s wines, produced from ancient terraced vineyards. Dinner at the hotel offers such regional fare as grilled zucchini with mint; baccala (salt cod) with fennel fronds, red peppercorns, and arugula; and scamorza (melted smoked cheese) wrapped in lemon leaves. Mamma mia!
B, D • L’Hostaria di Bacco

DAY 4 – FURORE TO POSITANO

The Amalfi Coast is best admired from on high. Today we'll walk along mountain ridge that parallels the sea, taking in vistas that town-bound visitors to the Amalfi Coast can only imagine. (It’s not called “Path of the Gods” for nothing.) Our hike takes us past steeply terraced vineyards, mountain grottos, herds of sheep, and abandoned stone huts. Though we remain on the ridge without climbing or descending to any great degree, there are moments of scrambling on the rocky paths. We'll wind up in the hilltop town of Nocelle for lunch at a trattoria with a panoramic view. Afterwards, you can choose to descend by foot or van to Positano, the coastal town where our final hotel is located. (By foot, we’re on sidewalks that switchback through backyard neighborhoods and gardens.) The rest of the day offers free time in Positano to shop or relax. Our evening wine tasting spotlights the white wines of Campania: Greco di Tufo, Fiano di Avellino, and Falaghina. Dinner in town offers another fantastic view.
B • Hotel Montemare in Positano

DAY 5 – THE ISLE OF CAPRI

Rising out of the Bay of Naples is the towering island of Capri. Here is where the decadent Emperor Tiberius sumptuously lived in exile and where famous writers and movie stars had their getaways. We'll take the hour-long ferry from Positano to Capri, getting a fabulous view of Naples, the sparkling bay, and Vesuvius along the way—and perhaps some playful dolphins. (It happens!) After disembarking, we'll walk to the top of Capri the town, winding through its streets and sidewalks, then set off on our loop hike. We’ll follow a path high on the sea-cliffs, tracing the circumference of the island and flanked by wildflowers and scrubby pines. We can finish with an optional stop at the archaeological site of Villa Jovis, the Imperial villa of Emperor Tiberius, then return by ferry. Pre-dinner, we’ll convene for an informal wine tasting at the hotel, featuring Campania’s red: Aglianico (dubbed “Barolo of the South”), Piedirosso, and Lacryma Christi. Dinner is on your own in Positano.
B, D • Hotel Montemare in Positano

DAY 6 – POSITANO LOOP

Today's hike winds through the town of Montepertuso, then up into the coastal hills. Though it’s a long climb to the top, we’ll be in dense, cool woods where oak trees, herbs, and Mediterranean scrub line the way and provide a magical setting. The descent back to Positano follows a different path: an ancient, exposed switchback that was once the old road to Naples. Back in Positano, there will be time for last-minute shopping, then we'll meet for our final tasting. Our farewell dinner is at a charming mountainside restaurant, which offers fantastic grilled meats (a perfect accompaniment to Aglianico) and an arrary of homemade liquors.
B, D • Hotel Montemare in Positano

DAY 7 – ARRIVEDERCI!

A shuttle (1-1/2 hours) to the Naples train station, arriving by noon, and assistance with your travel plans. B

Want an Amalfi wine tour without the hiking? Check out our Amalfi Coast for Wine Lovers.

Please bear in mind that this itinerary is made one year in advance, so details may change due to the winemakers' schedule (especially during harvest), hotel availability, weather, and other unforeseen circumstances. Any substitutions will be with a property of equivalent interest and value.

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Dates & fees:

7 days
2017 dates

Tour available for custom groups only, minimum size: 4. Inquire about prospective dates.

Price

$3,795 per person, based on the accompanying 7-day itinerary for 4 pax; discounts for larger groups. Modifications are possible, including the number of days, level of accommodations, number of wine tastings, and inclusion of meals.
Single supplement: $400

Meet

Caserta train station [map]

Depart

Naples train station [map]

What's included:

  • 6 nights accommodations (double room) in three 3-star hotels, with breakfast buffet
  • 5 gourmet dinners (three courses with wine)
  • 1 welcome lunch
  • All wine tastings mentioned
  • Admission to Pompeii, Mt. Vesuvius, and Villa Cimbrone
  • Shuttle at beginning/end of tour, as described

What's not included:

  • Air travel
  • Train to meeting point (Naples)
  • 1 dinner on your own and most lunches
  • After-dinner drinks, or special wines at tastings that are not part of what is provided to the group
  • Items of a personal nature
  • Anything not specified as included

This was a wonderful tour—very well planned and exceeded all expectations. Thank you!

– Chuck Field, Marlton, NJ
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