Piedmont & Cinque Terre Trails

A wine & hiking tour, from the Langhe Hills to the Italian Riviera

Slide Show:

  • Day 1: Setting off on a walk from La Morra, our home base in Barolo country
  • Trail signage on the Barolo Wine Trail shows a wine glass. How appropriate!
  • After the hike, we head to Barolo town for a tasting.
  • Yes, we sampled every single one—and more!—at Borgogno.
  • Blissed out (on the view, of course) from Borgogno’s rooftop.
  • One lucky day we arrived during La Morra’s annual wine fest and sampled from 61 tables of Barolo.
  • Hamming it up with the Marchesi di Barolo, where we have dinner in their private dining room
  • Day 2 takes us on another section of the Barolo Wine Trail
  • A ciabot on the hillcrest presides over vineyards and hazelnut groves
  • Kicking up the dirt in Barolo cru, like Brunate and Cerequio
  • Tour leader Claudio Bisio gives an impromptu lesson in trellising
  • At last! Our post-hike tasting at Oddero introduces Piedmont’s star grapes
  • Are there enough bottles on this table?
  • Day 3 features a hike in cheese country in the Alte Langhe
  • Here pastures, hazelnuts, and woods dominate
  • We have a chance encounter with the owner of one hazelnut grove, who poses with his favorite tree.
  • He pulls samples out of his truck: plain, salted, glazed, and chocolate-coated. Che fortuna!
  • Tapping the village fountain for a necessary water refill (after all those hazelnuts).
  • Lunch is at a cheese farm in Murrazzano, where Enrica the cheesemaker is our host.
  • Her mamma makes the salumi.
  • Honey and cogna, a delicious grape spread, accompany the cheese. And Dolcetto wine, of course!
  • Local breeds of cow, sheep, and goat supply milk for the DOP cheese
  • After lunch, we return to Barolo for our afternoon tasting at the family-run Vajra estate.
  • Getting those label shots—the best memory aid!
  • The mamma, Milena Vaira, pours a splendid line-up.
  • Mmm, mmm, good!
  • On Day 4 en route to Liguria, we stop in the white-wine town of Gavi
  • Here the massive Fortress of Gavi has guarded the “salt roads” since medieval times.
  • Thirsty from the climb to the fort, our group is ready for lunch!
  • Eating like the locals do: Ravioli with wine in a bowl
  • Gavi’s other claim to fame: soft amaretti cookies. To die for!
  • Gavi di Gavi wine is featured this afternoon at our visit to Fontanassa & Il Poggio
  • Il Poggio winemaker Francesca Poggio tries to imitate the petulant look in her photo with grandpa.
  • By evening, we’ve arrived in the Riviera. Ahh!
  • Day 5 features a hike in the Cinque Terre national park.
  • Water, water, everywhere.
  • Claudio Bisio leads the climb out of Vernazza
  • Precipitous vineyards encountered en route.
  • The pastel palette of the Cinque Terre
  • How high we’ve climbed! The view back towards Vernazza
  • Vernazza’s watchtower and the rocky sea cliffs
  • Ancient stone steps on the Cinque Terre trail
  • Climbs alternate with pretty pathways past vineyards and olive groves
  • Freshly harvested grapes for hungry hikers on the trail
  • Whew! Put those tired puppies in the water!
  • A café on the Via dell’ Amore (Lovers’ Lane), the last leg of the Cinque Terre
  • Waiting for our train home, we’ve time to admire the scenery Riomaggiore
  • A Riomaggiore resident.
  • Cinque Terre fishing boats
  • The waters is so clear because the Cinque Terre is a protected maritime park
  • A mermaid rises from the sea
  • In the evening, Ligurian seafood takes the spotlight.
  • Another scrumptious dish we'll taste: Pesto alla Genovese (with potatoes and green beans).
  • As our wine dinners demonstrate, “What grows together, goes together.”
  • Our destination on day 6: The hidden cove of San Fruttuoso and Portofino
  • What, another hill?! (That’s your guide, Pat Thomson.)
  • But ain't it worth it?
  • The end of the hike appears like a mirage. Gorgeous.
  • After our hike, we ferry to Portofino.
  • Dusk in Sestri Levante, our home base on the Riviera
  • A pre-dinner tasting on our hotel terrace
  • Vermentino and pigato, white wines as fresh as a sea breeze
  • Focaccia and farinata, still warm from the bakery, accompany our tasting
  • Here’s to a great tour!
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