Rioja Roundup

The Past and Future of Spanish Wine

Slide Show:

  • Hola Rioja! Spain’s most famous wine region, nestled beside the Sierra Cantabria mountains
  • RIOJA ROUNDUP starts in Valladolid, capital of Castilla y León
  • This part of Spain offers both ancient monuments…
  • …and cutting-edge architecture, like YSIOS, a winery by architect Santiago Calatrava
  • We begin with a lesson in terroir at ABADIA RETUERTA
  • The abbey’s medieval church serves as ABADIA RETUERTA’s tasting room
  • Peñafiel, ground zero for Ribera del Duero and our home base on night #1.
  • Afternoon takes us to PROTOS, Peñafiel’s oldest winery, reborn.
  • PROTOS’ wines: classic and superb
  • The star of the show: bush-trained tempranillo
  • A tempranillo cluster, fresh from harvest
  • Our time in Ribera includes boutique wineries like CONVENTO SAN FRANCISCO.
  • CONVENTO SAN FRANCISCO’s Cesar Rodriguez explains various methods of punch-over
  • ¡Che bueno! Sated after our tasting
  • There’s time to poke around Peñafiel. Here, the local bull ring. Olé!
  • Day 2, we visit the pioneering EMILIO MORO.
  • Here we taste tempranillo in every style, from joven to va-va-voom.
  • En route to Rioja, we stop in BURGOS, a World Heritage site
  • A guest poses in pilgrim wear in Burgos.
  • MIGUEL MERINO claims his is the smallest winery in Rioja. It’s unquestionably one of the best.
  • A Kodak moment in the experimental vineyard at MIGUEL MERINO
  • We stop in the Gothic cathedral of Briones
  • Day 3 features the GUGGENHEIM MUSEUM in Bilbao
  • That afternoon, we return to Rioja’s most traditional winery, LOPEZ DE HEREDIA
  • Their ancient fermentation tanks, still in use
  • The last of the Mohicans, LOPEZ DE HEREDIA ages its wines for 10-20 years in barrique
  • All those barrels mean LOPEZ DE HEREDIA has its own cooperage
  • A touch of modern: Iraqi architect Zaha Hadid’s tasting room for LOPEZ DE HEREDIA
  • Good wine requires good food, like roasted lamb at the REMELLURI winery
  • Day 4 features another classicist: FAUSTINO
  • And continues with CONTINO, which pioneered 100% estate-grown fruit.
  • CONTINO’s Jesus Madrazo Mateo offers a taste of partially fermented grape must
  • Line ’em up: CONTINO’s elegant Rioja Reserva.
  • Happy now! An al fresco tasting at CONTINO
  • Afternoon spotlights MARQUES DE RISCAL, another project of architect Frank Gehry
  • Harvest activities at the winery
  • Afternoon takes us to RAMIREZ DE GANUZA, a modernist—and perfectionist.
  • Our group at CASTILLO DE CUZCURRITA, a winery with castle (not bad!)
  • Double-fisted drinking at CUZCURRITA, where we compare two tempranillo. ¡Salud!
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