Rioja Roundup
The Past and Future of Spanish Wine
Slide Show:
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Hola Rioja! Spain’s most famous wine region, nestled beside the Sierra Cantabria mountains
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RIOJA ROUNDUP starts in Valladolid, capital of Castilla y León
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This part of Spain offers both ancient monuments…
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…and cutting-edge architecture, like YSIOS, a winery by architect Santiago Calatrava
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We begin with a lesson in terroir at ABADIA RETUERTA
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The abbey’s medieval church serves as ABADIA RETUERTA’s tasting room
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Peñafiel, ground zero for Ribera del Duero and our home base on night #1.
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Afternoon takes us to PROTOS, Peñafiel’s oldest winery, reborn.
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PROTOS’ wines: classic and superb
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The star of the show: bush-trained tempranillo
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A tempranillo cluster, fresh from harvest
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Our time in Ribera includes boutique wineries like CONVENTO SAN FRANCISCO.
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CONVENTO SAN FRANCISCO’s Cesar Rodriguez explains various methods of punch-over
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¡Che bueno! Sated after our tasting
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There’s time to poke around Peñafiel. Here, the local bull ring. Olé!
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Day 2, we visit the pioneering EMILIO MORO.
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Here we taste tempranillo in every style, from joven to va-va-voom.
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En route to Rioja, we stop in BURGOS, a World Heritage site
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A guest poses in pilgrim wear in Burgos.
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MIGUEL MERINO claims his is the smallest winery in Rioja. It’s unquestionably one of the best.
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A Kodak moment in the experimental vineyard at MIGUEL MERINO
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We stop in the Gothic cathedral of Briones
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Day 3 features the GUGGENHEIM MUSEUM in Bilbao
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That afternoon, we return to Rioja’s most traditional winery, LOPEZ DE HEREDIA
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Their ancient fermentation tanks, still in use
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The last of the Mohicans, LOPEZ DE HEREDIA ages its wines for 10-20 years in barrique
- All those barrels mean LOPEZ DE HEREDIA has its own cooperage
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A touch of modern: Iraqi architect Zaha Hadid’s tasting room for LOPEZ DE HEREDIA
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Good wine requires good food, like roasted lamb at the REMELLURI winery
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Day 4 features another classicist: FAUSTINO
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And continues with CONTINO, which pioneered 100% estate-grown fruit.
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CONTINO’s Jesus Madrazo Mateo offers a taste of partially fermented grape must
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Line ’em up: CONTINO’s elegant Rioja Reserva.
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Happy now! An al fresco tasting at CONTINO
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Afternoon spotlights MARQUES DE RISCAL, another project of architect Frank Gehry
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Harvest activities at the winery
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Afternoon takes us to RAMIREZ DE GANUZA, a modernist—and perfectionist.
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Our group at CASTILLO DE CUZCURRITA, a winery with castle (not bad!)
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Double-fisted drinking at CUZCURRITA, where we compare two tempranillo. ¡Salud!
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