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Barolo & Beyond
A focus on the Langhe A wine-intensive tour for enophiles, wine educators, and wine
enthusiasts, featuring marquee names in Barolo and Barbaresco. Get to
know Piedmont wine like a pro. Highlights:
Wine estates include Elio Altare, Conterno
Fantino, Bruno Giacosa, Aldo Contero, Renato Ratti, Marchesi di Gresi,
Produttori del Barbaresco, Giacomo Bologna & more
Explore 5 communes of Barolo (La Morra, Monforte, Barolo, Serralunga,
Verduno) Visit Barbaresco and the new DOCG zone of Dolcetto di
Dogliani See the Wine Bank, a project of the EU and Slow
Foods in Pollenza
Lunch at the Marchese di Barolo winery
2008
dates: [6 days/5 nights] May 12-17 Cost: $2,795. Single supplement $350
Meet:Tortona (train station 50 min. outside Milan) Depart: Asti
&/or Tortona train station
Day 1 - Barolo's western communes We begin at the birthplace of Barolo, "the king
of wines and wine of kings." After a pick-up in Tortona (a short train
ride from Milan), we shuttle to the Castle of Barolo in the
Langhe hills. Here Barolo wine was created by the French-born Marchesa
Giulia Colbert, a widow at the center of a circle of nobles,
politicians, and enologists in the 1800s. After a tour of the castle,
we'll gather in the enoteca for an orientation on Barolo's 11 communes,
3 mountain ridges, and historic cru. Then we lunch at the Marchesa's
villa, now owned by the Marchesi di Barolo winery. Here we'll
start exploring 'modernist' versus 'traditionalist' Barolo and the
differences between west and east communes. These themes continue
during our afternoon tasting at Renato Ratti, a producer who led
the renaissance in Barolo wine in the 1970s, along with Elio Altare and
Angelo Gaja. The Ratti estate in La Morra has a brand new
state-of-the-art winery, as well as a vast private collection of
antique winemaking artifacts, bottles, and 10,000 labels. Our third
tasting introduces Pelaverga, one of Piedmont's obscure but delightful
indigenous reds, made only in the commune of Verduno. We'll sample this
at the family-run winery Fratelli Alessandria, plus their
traditional-style Barolos and Barberas. A welcome dinner in the
medieval city of Alba introduces the elegant French-influenced cuisine
of Piedmont, which includes risotto, plin (tiny ravioli), wild
boar and woodland game, and hazelnut-and-chocolate desserts such as the
pudding-cake bounet. L, D
Day 2 - Barolo's eastern side & Dolcetto's new DOCG In the 15th century, the commune of Dogliani
was known for its exceptional Dolcetto wine. According to legend, the
Marchese di Clavesana issued an edict ordering that only Dolcetto be
planted in his vast territories; violators would be beheaded. Today,
Dolcetto di Dogliani still is considered the best of Dolcetto's
seven DOCs and recently received certification as a new DOCG. We'll
visit the standard-bearer of Dolcetto di Dogliani, Pecchenino,
for an in-depth tasting. Afterwards we head to the Alte Langhe,
climbing in elevation and arriving at Bossolasco, one of Piedmont's
famed cheese towns. A mouthwatering picnic at an artisan cheese &
salumi farm awaits us. Then it's on to two of Barolo's eastern
communes, Monforte and Castiglione Faletto, where Barolo's more
structured, masculine, and long-lived wines originate. Guido Fantino
and Claudio Conterno, co-owners at Conterno Fantino in Monforte,
will guide us through their array of wines and delve into their various
cru. Then we'll visit Aldo Conterno, one of Barolo's pioneers in
Castiglione Faletto. Founded in 1870 and now run by fifth-generation
brothers, this was the first Barolo producer whose wine was exported to
the U.S. Son Giacomo will lead us through our tasting and discuss their
traditionalist approach to Barolo and their new Super Piedmont blends.
We return to Alba for another sumptuous piemontese dinner. B, L,
D
Day 3 - Barbaresco Today we
head to the town of Barbaresco to explore its eponymous wine. Aldo
Vacca, managing director of the Produttori del Barbaresco, will
be our host at this highly respected cooperative, offering a
fascinating picture of how cooperatives work and an in-depth sampling
of their benchmark Barbaresco. After lunch in town, we'll visit two
highly esteemed Barbaresco producers with more modernist styles who
each have a portfolio of exemplary cru, beginning with the Marchesi
di Gresy or Bruno Rocca. Our third tasting takes us to
Bruno Giacosa in the Barbaresco zone of Neive. Gambero
Rosso called this winemaker "one of the last surviving wise old men
of the Langhe." A staunch traditionalist, Giacosa is known for his
intimate knowledge of terroir, having spent 50 years acquiring grapes
from the pedigree cru, from which he crafts his distinguished Barolos
and Barbarescos. We'll then return to Alba for time on your own
to explore this elegant little city, a gourmand's delight. Here you can
search for older Barolo vintages in the well-stocked wine shops, pick
up precious white truffles and yummy chocolate-hazelnut candies in the
gourmet shops, or visit the piemontese baroque and medieval churches.
Dinner on your own in Alba. B
Day 4 - The Wine Bank of Pollenzo In the town of Pollenzo, King Carlo Alberto of
Piedmont built a magnificent hunting lodge in the 1800s. Today this
regal property houses a multi-million-euro food & wine complex, opened
in 2004, which includes a professional cooking school, the 4-star
restaurant Ristorante Guido, and La Banca del Vino, or Wine
Bank. Located in the king's vast wine cellar, the wine bank is a
new concept: an archive holding wines from 300 selected wineries of
Italy that will be put on the market only when the wines have reached
maturity. We'll tour this archive-cum-laboratory affiliated with Slow
Food, have a tasting, and hear how the experiment is going. After
lunch, we move towards Asti and visit Braida, the estate of
Giacomo Bologna. Now deceased, this man single-handedly
revolutionized Barbera d'Asti, turning it from a rustic, farmhouse
quaffer into a wine of great character and finesse. Giacomo's daughter,
Raffaela, will recount this Cinderella story and guide us through the
estate's bottlings, which range from a dry frizzante Barbera to
barrique-aged powerhouses. After returning to Alba, those with stamina
can enjoy an informal tasting at the hotel featuring Piedmont's
lesser-known indigenous grape varieties, such as Arneis, Grignolino,
Ruche, and Freisa. Dinner is at the Osteria dell'Arco, a restaurant
associated with the Slow Food movement, founded 20 year ago by
Piemontese native Carlo Petrini. B, D
Day 5 - Barolo's innovators
Ceretto, producing wine for 70 years, has grown into a unique
constellation of small-estate wineries with separate vinification
facilities. Still family-run, Ceretto is known both for its
innovative architectural commissions (e.g., the colorful Sol LeWitt
chapel located in the Brunate vineyard) and, of course, for its
portfolio of Barolo wines and benchmark Arneis. We'll visit their most
historic property, another splendid hunting lodge of King Carlo
Alberto. Afterwards we'll head up the road to Vietti, one of the
most admired names in Piemontese wine. Located at the foot of
Castiglione Falletto's medieval castle, this estate's fame is based on
single-vineyard Barolo from prized sites, but they also consistently
sweep awards for their sumptuous Barberas. Our final tasting is at Elio Altare. Widely considered the most
influential innovator in the Langhe during the 1970s, Altare was
disowned by his father for his new ideas about green harvest and French
barrique. But his methods have since firmly taken hold. Generous in
spirit, Altare has been the personal mentor to dozens of Barolo
producers of the next generation. Our farewell dinner will be in Alba at the Restaurant Piola, owned by
Ceretto winemaking family. B, D
Day 6 - Arrivederci! A shuttle
to the Asti train station and assistance with your travel plans. B
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