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Land of Barolo
Kings, castles, and regal reds
For wine and Italian cuisine at its most elegant, it doesn't get any better than Piedmont. But
this gourmet tour is also rich in history, as the story of Barolo is intertwined with kings, prime ministers, and
marchesi. It's also rich in culinary delights: truffles, mountain cheeses, and hazelnuts are regional treats
spotlighted on this tour. But at center stage is Piedmont's stunning array of wines, with Barolo and Barbaresco at the
pinnacle.
Highlights:
Wine estates: Marchesi di Barolo, Silvio Grasso, Produttori del Barbaresco, Ceretto, Giacomo Bologna, Villa Sparina & more
Truffle fair & Palio degli Asini, a medieval donkey race
Lunch at an artisan cheese farm in the mountains
A cooking lesson at the company owners' medieval townhouse
2009 dates: [6 days/5 nights] October 4-9
Cost: $2,995. Single supplement $350.
Meet: Tortona train station (near Milan)
Depart: Arquata Scrivia |
Day 1 - A day at the
races After shuttling from the train station to the Langhe
hills, we'll devote the day to Alba's medieval festival and truffle fair. The centerpiece is a donkey race, which dates back
to Alba's defeat by Asti in 1275. Today the palio is accompanied by a medieval parade, artisan food fair, and truffle market
spotlighting Alba's famed white truffles. We'll have time on our own to enjoy the festival and watch the palio. Dinner
spotlights the French-influenced cuisine of Piedmont, some of the most elegant in Italy. D
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Day 2 - Say "truffle"
We spend the morning with a truffle hunter and his hound. Walking through hazelnut groves, we'll see how these canines are trained to sniff out the
precious tubers growing at the roots of trees. Next we delve into the history of Barolo, which is intertwined with the
ruling class of Piedmont in the 1800s. We'll have visit the Castle of Barolo, home of French-born Marchesa Guilia Colbert,
who first created Barolo wine. In the afternoon, we taste some premium Barolo at two wineries in Barolo's eastern communes:
Massolino in Serralunga and either Elio Grasso or Fantino Conterno in Monforte and. Both of these communes (townships) are
known for more structured Barolos, rich with tannins for long aging. Dinner will feature local fare like agnolotti (a
variation of ravioli), veal with delicate tuna sauce (vitello tonnato), and bread sticks - a piemontese invention. B,
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Day 3 - Mountain cheese & the King of Wine Our first stop is
either at Sandrone, a modernist leader with a devoted following, or else the small family-run winery of Silvio Grasso, which
makes a delicious "Super Piedmont" blend as well as single-vineyard Barolos. Lunch then takes us to the high hills, or Alte
Langhe, where we'll have a buffet lunch at an artisan cheese farm, feasting on freshly made mountain cheese, salumi, and other regional
goodies. In the afternoon, we will spend time in the commune of Dogliani, a brand new DOCG zone where the most structured
Dolcetto comes from. We'll visit Pecchinino, a master of this fruity wine. There's free time afterwards to explore the shops
of Alba, a lovely medieval city whose storefronts are brimming with local delicacies like truffle butter, chocolate, and
chestnut honey. Tonight is dinner on your own at one of Alba's many fine restaurants. B, L
| Day 4 - Barbaresco & Barbera d'Asti Today we focus on the other B's of Piedmont: Barbaresco and Barbera. We'll start in the town of
Barbaresco, visiting either the Produttori del Barbaresco or Marchesi di Gresy. Both make benchmark Barberescos and feature
several cru, or single-vineyard Barbareschi. After lunch, we'll head to Barbera territory near Asti and have our afternoon
tasting at Braida, the estate of Giacomo Bologna. This was the man who single-handedly revolutionized Barbera, transforming
it from a rustic table wine into a wine of great character and finesse. After hearing Barbara's Cindarella story, we'll
drive to our second hotel in southeastern Piedmont-the land of Gavi wine. The hotel is on the property of Villa Sparina, the
leading producer of Gavi wine. B, D
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Day 5 - Gavi di Gavi This morning, we'll visit the town of Gavi. Here shop windows proudly display Gavi di Gavi
wine, as well as light-as-air almond cookies. We'll visit the 11th C. Fortress of Gavi, which once guarded the salt roads
from Genoa to Milan. Then we'll head to the medieval townhouse of Dolce Vita's owners for a fun, hands-on cooking lesson. On
the menu: bagna cauda (vegetables with a creamy garlic/anchovy dip), risotto al Gavi, and tiramisu. We'll also raid the
cellar for a sampler of Piedmont wines. Afterwards, we'll tour Villa Sparina's estate and 17th C. cellars, followed by a
tasting of its award-winning wines. Finally, our farewell dinner is at the hotel's elegant restaurant, which spotlights
regional fare and Gavi wines. B, D |
Day 6 - Arrivederci! A shuttle to the Arquata Scrivia train station (between Milan & Genoa) and assistance with your travel plans. B B
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