Italy's rice bowl is located in the plains of the Po River, where miles of land were long ago converted to rice paddies. It's no wonder, then, that Piedmont gave birth to risotto. As a native of Piedmont, Dolce Vita co-founder Claudio Bisio is devoted to this dish. Here is his springtime rendition, which makes use of fresh, seasonal asparagus. The puree is Claudio's twist on a traditional recipe, which infuses the rice with extra flavor.

(Serves 4)
olive oil
small onion
2 cloves garlic
2" of carrot
1-1/2 c. Arborio rice
1/2 cup white wine
several cups of hot vegetable or chicken broth
1/4 c. heavy cream
2 T. butter
1 lb asparagus, bottoms trimmed
Trim off tops of asparagus and set aside. Chop the rest of the stalks in a cuisinart.

Finely mince the onion, garlic and carrot. Saute in pot with heavy bottom (a terracotta pot is best) until tender. Throw in the rice; toast rice for two minutes, stirring constantly. Deglaze with wine and continue stirring until wine is absorbed. Add asparagus mixture and begin adding broth in1/2 cup increments, stirring until each dose is absorbed. After about 10 minutes, add the asparagus tips and 1/4 cup heavy cream. Continue cooking and stirring until rice is al dente, about 20 minutes total. Towards the end of the cooking time, reduce the amount of broth per increment, so final batches of liquid can be absorbed without overcooking rice.

When rice is done, remove from flame. Add 2 T. butter and mix in well. Let risotto sit 3-5 minutes to absorb butter and take on a creamier texture.

Serve with freshly grated parmesan cheese. Buon appetito!

WINE SUGGESTIONS:

Arneis, "Bricco delle Ciliege," Almondo Giovanni Since risotto was born in Piedmont, you'd do well to turn to Piedmont wines for an accompaniment. Arneis is one of the region's few whites, and it has enjoyed a dramatic rise in popularity in recent years. Try this one and you'll see why. Arneis has fresh, seductive character that suggests sweet apples, white flowers, and a hint of citrus. This cru from Almondo Giovanni is our favorite Arneis bar none, but it might be hard to find in the U.S. Two excellent alternatives come from the Barolo-area wine estates Ceretto and Bruno Giocosa.

Fiano di Avellino, Feudi di San Gregorio The fiano grape hails from Campania, south of Naples, but originally came to Italy via the earliest Greek settlers. Few do fiano better than Feudi di San Gregorio, one of the leading producers in Campania. Pineapple, peach, and minerality characterize this wine, which has an appetizing acidity and medium-bodied structure.

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