This classic recipe comes from LOBEL'S MEAT & WINE (Chronicle Books, 2006), a new cookbook published by three brothers who are co-owners of M. Lobel & Sons, an old, esteemed butcher on the Upper East Side of New York City. The great thing about a cookbook written by butchers is that it's very clear and precise about cuts of meat and special preparations to request from the butcher - as the following recipe demonstrates. That's great for those of us who are not regular meat eaters, but who want to indulge with a good meat recipe when uncorking our best red wines! Altogether, it's an excellent addition to any epicurean's cookbook collection.

OSSO BUCO ALLA MILANESE
(Traditional Milanese-style Braised Veal Shanks)
(serves 4)
In its older, more traditional form, dating probably from the early nineteenth century, osso buco alla Milanese seems to have been simply sections of veal shank braised with onion and white wine. At some point it became common to energize the dish with the last-minute addition of a 'gremolata', a lovely mixture of garlic, parsley, lemon zest, and sometimes anchovies.

Most contemporary recipes for osso buco tend to include lots of other things, such as carrots and celery and a variety of herbs. Sometimes a sizable dose of white wine is part of the plan, along with tomatoes or tomato sauce - never mind that the dish most likely predates the arrival of tomatoes in Italy. We decided to develop a recipe that reflected the earlier, simpler dish, though we're not total purists, as we do add veal stock and a touch of tomato paste. Once you've made this stripped-down osso buco-especially when served alongside its classic partner, a saffron-scented risotto alla Milanese-you may never go back to the ingredient-heavy version again.

Kosher salt
Four 8 to 10-ounce veal shanks, cut by the butcher as for osso buco about 1-1/2 inches thick, tied *
All-purpose flour for dredging
6 tablespoons olive oil
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 yellow onion, finely chopped
1 teaspoon tomato paste
1/2 cup dry white wine
2 cups veal stock (or canned beef broth)
1 loosely packed tablespoon finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1/4 teaspoon finely minced garlic
2 teaspoons, finely grated lemon zest

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.

2. Generously salt the veal shanks on all sides. Coat them with flour and knock off any excess.

3. Heat a large flameproof casserole or Dutch oven over medium-high heat and add the olive oil. When hot, cook the shanks until deeply browned, 8 to 10 minutes on the first side and 6 to 8 minutes on the second, reducing the heat if they threaten to burn. Stand the shanks on their edges and, holding them with tongs, brown these surfaces, working your way around the circumference of each shank (lean them against the side of the pot, if necessary). This will take another 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer to a plate and set aside. Discard the fat in the pot and wipe out any blackened bits.

4. Return the pot to medium heat, melt the butter, and reduce the heat to medium-low. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until pale gold and soft, 15 to 17 minutes. Stir in the tomato paste and cook for 1 minute. Stir in the wine and simmer until almost evaporated. Stir in the stock and 1/2 teaspoon salt, scraping the bottom of the pot to loosen any browned bits. Add the veal shanks and any accumulated juices and bring just to a simmer.

5. Cover tightly, transfer to the oven, and cook for 20 minutes. Reduce the over temperature to 250 degrees and continue cooking until the meat is very tender, 2 to 3 hours longer. Adjust the oven temperature as needed to maintain a bare simmer. Carefully turn the shanks over once or twice during braising.

6. The sauce, while somewhat thickened and very flavorful, should still be brothy. If necessary, gently simmer for a few minutes more to concentrate the flavor, but don't concentrate it too much. The sauce should provide good moisture to the meat. Season the sauce to taste with salt, if necessary.

7. Transfer the shanks to warmed serving plates and remove the strings.

8. Stir in parsley, garlic, and lemon zest into the sauce. Spoon generous amounts over the shanks and serve immediately.

* Butcher's note: These veal shanks are prepared as for osso buco. This means the shanks are cut into piece 1-1/2 to 2-1/2 inches thick and then tied with butcher's twine to hold meat in place during cooking. Ask your butcher to tie them, or to do it yourself, tie the twine around the circumference of the piece, securing it with a tight knot. The twine should encircle the shank piece so that a little of the round bone is visible.

Wine notes: The Lobels suggest pairing the Osso Buco and saffron risotto with a traditional Valpolicella Classico from the neighboring Veneto region. We recommend the historic, 16th century ALLEGRINI estate is always reliable for this kind of classic style of Valpolicella, while TENUTA SANT' ANTONIO is a new, up-and-coming producer in the east side of Verona who makes worthy Valpolicella and Amarone, in both new and old styles.


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