I know, I know. Ratatouille is French, not Italian. But in honor of the animated film Ratatouille - a delicious treat for foodies of all ages - I'm including a recipe. In the movie, a nouvelle chef worries that ratatouille isn't upscale enough. It's "peasant food," she scoffs. But when the snooty food critic tastes their rendition, he's whisked back in time to the country kitchen of his childhood, where mama's ratatouille soothes all wounds and provides the ultimate comfort food.

The following recipe has been a staple in my kitchen since it first appeared in Gourmet in 1991. With its garden-fresh veggies, fragrant basil, and dash of fennel seed, it's a perfect late-summer side dish. Or it can be served as an appetizer with break and crackers.

RATATOUILLE
(serves 4)
1 onion, sliced thin
2 garlic cloves, minced
5 tablespoons olive oil
a 3/4-pound eggplant, cut into 1/2-inch cubes (about 3 cups)
1 small zucchini, scrubbed, quartered lengthwise, and cut into thin slices 1 red bell pepper, chopped
3/4 pound small ripe tomatoes, chopped coarse (about 1-1/4 cups)
1/4 teaspoon dried oregano, crumbled
1/4 teaspoon dried thyme, crumbled
1/8 teaspoon ground coriander
1/4 teaspoon fennel seeds
3/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup shredded fresh basil leaves

In a large skillet cook the onion and garlic in 2 tablespoons of the oil over moderately low heat, stirring occasionally, until the onion is softened. Add the remaining 3 tablespoons oil and heat over moderately high heat until it is hot but not smoking. Add the eggplant and cook the mixture, stirring occasionally, for 8 minutes, or until the eggplant is softened. Stir in the zucchini and bell pepper and cook the mixture over the moderate heat, stirring occasionally, for 12 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes and cook the mixture, stirring occasionally, for 5 to 7 minutes, or until vegetables are tender. Stir in the oregano, thyme, coriander, fennel seeds, salt, and pepper to taste and cook the mixture, stirring, for 1 minute. Stir in the basil and combine the mixture well.

The ratatouille may be made 1 day in advance, kept covered and chilled, and reheated before serving.

WINE PAIRING: A dry rose from Provence makes a natural pairing for this Provencal dish. If going Italian, try a Pinot Grigio from northeast Italy. Tiefenbrunner's Pinot Grigio delle Venezie is a great wine at a great price, showcasing the grape's characteristic Golden apple and pear aromas with a zippy citric edge. Schiopetto's Pinot Grigio Collio is more rounded and opulent, with mellow golden fruit and a clean, persistent finish.


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