La Dolce Vita Wine Tours

Venice to Amarone

Amarone, Soave, and Italy’s Northern Renaissance

Itinerary:

DAY 1 – PADUA and SOAVE

We meet in Venice at the Piazzale Roma (the only place in the City of Water reachable by car). Then it’s an hour’s drive to Padua, a gracious Renaissance city whose university was the cradle of modern medicine, thanks to its pioneering anatomical dissections. In Padua, we’ll visit a masterpiece of the Early Renaissance: Giotto’s frescos in the Arena Chapel, a floor-to-ceiling depiction of the life of the Virgin, whose full-bodied, emotive figures opened the door to Renaissance humanist art.

We then continue west to Soave, an ancient fortified city. In the shadow of its crenellated castle, one finds Pieropan, the producer who spearheaded Soave’s rescue. Those who remember Soave as a bland, flabby, mass-produced white are in for a big surprise. Today’s renditions can be concentrated and full of minerality thanks to rigorous winemaking techniques combined with old-vine garganega and volcanic, balsamic, or sea-bottom soils. At Pieropan we’ll also be introduced to the drying techniques (appassimento) that partially raisin the grapes, readying them for a heavenly passito dessert wine. Afterwards, we’ll head to our charming accommodations at an Amarone winery called Musella, situated on a former royal farmstead outside of Verona. Dinner in town introduces the cuisine of the Veneto, which includes such dishes as risotto with cuttlefish (risotto nero), pasta and bean soup (pasta e fasoi), thick spaghetti with duck ragout (bigoli con l’anatra), and the beloved Venetian tiramisu.
D • Musella

DAY 2 – VERONA AND AMARONE CLASSICO

This morning is devoted to a guided walking tour of Verona. This lovely, riverfront city was an important Roman colony, and that history is visible in an impressive Roman coliseum, Imperial city gate, and other traces of Roman architecture incorporated into later buildings. Our guide will walk us through the city’s most important squares, past significant churches and statues, into the bustling Piazze delle Erbe outdoor market with its colorfully frescoed buildings, and into the courtyard when Juliet Capulet waited for Romeo on her balcony.

After lunch, we’ll head to the Valpolicella wine zone, arrayed over five valleys to the north and east of Verona. Today we’ll be focusing on the older, classic territory for Amarone. One of Italy’s most magnificent and coveted red wines, it’s made from partially dried grapes following a tradition as old as the Romans. And we’ll start to see that laborious process at Allegrini. We’ll gain entry to their magnificent Renaissance palace, Villa della Torre, modeled on the patrician houses of ancient Rome and built around the themes of the four elements. After a tour, we’ll taste their line-up of benchmark wines.

We continue with another winery: either Stefano Accordini in Pedemonte, or Viviani in Negrar. Both are examples of small, family-run estates that still characterize Valpolicella. Throughout the day, you’ll get an ever-clearer picture of the different techniques involved in making Valpolicella, Ripasso, Amarone, and Recioto, the four variations on an ancient theme. Dinner is at a local trattoria.
B, D • Musella

DAY 3 – AMARONE EAST, THE NEWCOMERS

Today focuses on Amarone’s up-and-coming zone, which lies on the eastern side of town. Climbing a long hill, we’ll visit Trabucchi in the town of Illasi. This estate simply has one of the most beautiful settings around. Because it has parcels in both the Valpolicella and Soave zones, we’ll be able to taste wines from both territories—and great ones at that. Their line-up includes stellar garganega cru and Recioto di Soave (a passito dessert wine), all made according to biodynamic methods, as is their olive oil. On another ridge with another incredible view is Tenuta Sant’ Antonio. This is a relatively new estate run by four brothers. Originally they planned to open a chicken farm; you can be happy they didn’t! Their dedication and care in the vineyard and cellar has resulted in wines that repeatedly earn Tre Bicchieri awards—the Oscars of Italian wine. Afterwards, we’ll return to the hotel to relax at the pool or courtyard garden. Dinner is on your own in Verona.
B • Musella

DAY 4 – LAKE GARDA

About 17 miles west of Valpolicella lies Lake Garda, the largest lake in Italy, which was carved out by alpine glaciers at the end of the last Ice Age. At its southern end is the ancient fortified town of Sirmione. The Roman poet Catulus had a villa here, and the ruins of a Roman spa still exist. Sirmione is also home to a 13th century castle and popular sulfur springs. Today we’ll spend some time sightseeing here, then taste some wines from Lugana, the wine zone south of Lake Garda that dates all the way back to the Bronze Age. Zenato will be our winery of choice, since it owns vineyards both here and in Valpolicella and makes wines ranging from a champenoise-style Lugana Brut to a mind-blowing Amarone with waves of raisin and dark cherry. We’ll then return to the Amarone Classico zone and visit Bertani, the oldest winery in Verona, making wine since 1857. We’ll visit their Villa Novare estate and its beautiful Palladian-style villa. Our farewell dinner is in Verona, the beautiful Painted City.
B, D • Musella

DAY 5 – BUON VIAGGIO!

Shuttle to the Verona train station and assistance with your travel plans. B

Please bear in mind that this itinerary is made one year in advance, so details may change due to the winemakers' schedule (especially during harvest), hotel availability, weather, and other unforeseen circumstances. Any substitutions will be with a property of equivalent interest and value.

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